Pine woods can vary widely in hardness from species to species. Flooring choices can range comparably from hard maple or wenge to red oak to even softer than Douglas fir in hardness. True pine has a Janka rating of 1570, Carribean heart pine is 1280, red pine is 1630, longleaf southern yellow pine is 870, both shortleaf and loblolly southern yellow pine are 690, white pine is 420, and eastern white pine ranks in at 380 to give a few specific numbers.

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The original circle-sawn surface, skip-planned 50%.

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The Woods Company, Inc. is a leader in the Antique Wood Flooring industry, we pride ourselves on quality and customer service. All flooring is properly kiln dried and we maintain strict grading standards. Precision millwork and pre-squared ends ensure easy installation.

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Antique Barnwood Flooring is manufactured from 100% reclaimed lumber salvaged from old barns and other aged rural buildings. Our Antique Barnwood Flooring contains knots, nail holes, weather cracks, worn holes and other charachter marks.

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Solid wood flooring is exactly what the name implied: a solid piece of wood from top to bottom. The thickness of solid wood flooring can vary, but generally ranges from ¾” to 5/16”.
Solid wood floors can be used in any room that is on or above grade, or on or above ground level, in your home.
One of the many benefits of solid wood flooring is that it can be sanded and refinished many times. Solid wood floors are ideal in family/living rooms, dining rooms, bedromms and even kitchens and powder rooms.
Aboout the only place you can’t use solid wood flooring is in the basement, but there’s a solution for that area too.

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• Installation of solid 3/4" random width, reclaimed antique or traditional new, solid plank flooring from The Woods Company essentially requires the same tools and practices as followed in the installation of "standard," nail-down wood flooring products.
• Unless otherwise specified, our flooring is shipped in random widths of unequal linear feet each. Installation requires some thought but essentially only requires the installer lay rows of the prevalent widths more frequently than the widths of which you have less flooring. A tally with the linear foot quantity of each width is provided with an order, when shipped, that may be an aid for flooring layout.
• We kiln dry our products to under 10% moisture content, typically 6-9%, prior to milling. This puts the flooring in the generally accepted mid-range of moisture content prior to installation nationwide.
• Job site conditions are of importance, as the flooring may lose moisture or gain moisture dependent upon these conditions. It is not recommended that solid 3/4" flooring, be installed in any below-grade application or where any moisture intrusion is likely. The job site must be dry and the moisture content of the plywood sub-floor should be wthin 2% of the moisture content of the wood flooring. If the deviation is greater, (assuming job site is dry) acclamation of the flooring to the job site conditions is essential until balance is achieved.
• Generally speaking, all moisture-emitting trades (plastering, concrete, masonry etc.) should be through with their work and the products dry and cured. The job site atmosphere should be stabilized or conditioned with the cooling or heating systems, depending on season, operating for 2 weeks or more prior to flooring installation.
• Random width planks in the 3"-6" range should be "blind" nailed through the tongue every 4"-8", into a minimum 5/8" thick plywood sub-floor securely fastened to floor joists or dry concrete slab, leaving 1/2" clearance at walls and posts to allow for flooring movement seasonally. Red rosin paper or 15 pound felt paper may be used between sub-floor and flooring but should not be considered an effective moisture barrier. Some face nailing or hand nailing is generally needed to start the first few rows and to finish the installation of the last few rows. In widths of 7" and wider, face (surface) nailing or screw and plugging is suggested in addition to "blind" nailing as noted above, to control seasonal movement to a degree and to help boards remain flat.
• Generally the flooring is sanded and finished after all trim and cabinetry is installed and painted. Any holes, fractured knots, or voids can be filled at this time if desired. Following standard floor sanding procedures, we suggest 2 passes with floor sander, beginning with 80- grit and ending with 100- grit paper, followed by a careful vacuuming and tacking. The floor finish of your choice can now be applied, with the finish type dependent upon use, area flooring is used in, and desired appearance.
• Maintain wood flooring by providing walk-off mats at entries, use of felt protectors on all furniture legs and regular vaccuming. Wipe all spills promptly. Most polyurethane finishes allow for damp mopping, (with a well wrung mop) for periodic cleaning of dirt buildup. Please follow finish manufacturers instructions for cleaning.
• All wood expands and contracts seasonally dependent upon ambient humidity. The flooring planks that lay tightly together in the summer may develop some gaps between the boards during the dry months or heating season.
• We suggest that the practices of the wood flooring professional you have selected for the installation and finishing, with specific knowledge of local conditions, favorite finish types, etc. may differ from these guidelines and should be given due consideration.

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The edges of all boards meet squarely creating a uniform, smooth surface that blends the floor together from board to board. The look is contemporary and formal, and there are no grooves to catch dust. The square edge can cost 5 - 10% more, but it gives a smoother appearance and square edge floors are easier to refinish. The square edge is not recommended over uneven floors.

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